Keet Seel
Summary report for the discovery of Keet Seel, Betatakin and
Inscription House with notes about Tachina Point
Fred M. Blackburn
November 12, 2005
What became of the collection made in Tsegi Canyon in the spring
of 1895? It is the one major collection Richard [Wetherill] made which has
not been traced.
Unfortunately since
this winter found him doing some of his most interesting work Richard either
made no field notes or they have been lost. Only an incomplete, undetailed
record exists to show that in
November he was looking for ruins in New
Mexico, perhaps along the Animas
and the San Juan. It is uncertain whether he was alone or had companions
with him. But in December he was heading north again into Utah where he saw
the year out in a lonely wilderness of mesas and deep canyons. Apparently he
found nothing there to hold him long, for once again he turned south.
Introduction: Methodology
The purpose of this report is to help unravel the confusion surrounding the
disappearance of nearly 400 pieces of pottery from the Marsh Pass, Tsegi
Canyon, Kayenta area during the winter and early spring of 1895. I utilized
the Wetherill family archives stored at the Anasazi Heritage Center in
Dolores, Colorado. I expanded this goal, by necessity, to include my
personal archives accumulated during research completed for the Mesa Verde
Site Assessment team work in recreating the early expeditionary history of
Mesa Verde. I have involved the Wetherill family and other researchers in
cross-referencing of data.
Original contract with Navajo National Monument states that "copies" of all
materials be included in the final report. I found that many of these
letters required transcription and include copies of some materials found in
the Wetherill Family Archives located at the Anasazi Heritage Center. I
chose instead to complete a very detailed, and accurate indexed
transcription as a research note citation record for all information. This
seemed to be a more efficient way of promoting continued work in this area.
I am well aware that transcription typographical errors may exist in these
documents but I made every effort possible to provide an exact translated
transcription. Transcribed citations often do not reflect the entire
citation but refer only to those areas pertinent to the discoveries in Marsh
Pass and Navajo National Monument.
I contacted several of the repositories holding collections by the Wetherill
family. Two of these were mentioned in a letter from John Wetherill as being
in Berlin and London. I made initial contact with the British Museum and the
Museum Fur Volkerkunde in Berlin-Dahlem Germany. I also contacted the
American Museum of Natural History archives for information on the 1896-1897
Whitmore / Bowles expedition. I requested a list from the American Museum of
Natural History of all photographs and items related to the Kayenta Region
discoveries. All three archives have been slow in their response and will
require continued investigation beyond the scope of this years project. All
contact information is listed in the Research Notes accompanying this
report.
Photographs are included from the early era of exploration. Unfortunately
the only photographs, outside what the American Museum of Natural History
may have, are those taken by Charlie Mason in 1910 of Keet Seel and later
photographs ca. 1930 taken by Milton Snow also in Keet Seel. I include only
the photographs taken by Charlie Mason but list other photographs available
in the Wetherill Family Archives at the Anasazi Heritage Center.
Information beyond the discovery of Keet Seel was abundant in this search.
Quite early I recognized that other pieces of history, though not
immediately pertinent to the initial discovery of Keet Seel, were important
as a record in unraveling the history, both political and cultural, of
Navajo National Monument and archaeological excavations in the Kayenta
Region. I included that information with complete citations in the research
notes.
I organize this report into four sections which include:
1.Keet Seel
2.Betatakin
3.Inscription House
4.Tachina Point
I realize that much of this material is beyond the scope of the original
document. Indeed it would be unfortunate not to include notes found beyond
Keet Seel to aid Navajo National Monument recover and understand a complex
formative history.
Preface: Summary of Discovery
Sometime during December of 1894 and April of 1895 Richard Wetherill once
again left Mancos, Colorado to explore deep into the heartland of the Navajo
Nation. Richard led a group of men many if not all who had previously
accompanied him on the Hyde Exploring Expedition discoveries of the
Basketmaker people within Cottonwood Canyon, Whiskers Draw and Grand Gulch
in southeastern Utah and at Snyders Well in the Montezuma Valley near
Cortez, Colorado.
The expedition to the Kayenta Region may well have been facilitated by at
least two sources who resided in or near Bluff City, Utah. One of which
would have provided the information about archaeological riches south of the
San Juan River and the other as Navajo guide into what remained as hostile
territory under the control of Navajo leader HosKinini.
This is an unusual expedition from the outset. This is the only major
expedition not funded by a donor. This is the only expedition that shows a
near complete absence of photograph, written record, and document. This is
the only expedition which thus far finds no paper trail on the sale of
nearly 400 artifacts uncovered during the expedition.
Teddy Whitmore and George Bowles followed this expedition to the Kayenta
region in 1897 funding an expedition that ultimately would lead to the sale
of artifacts accumulated to the Hyde family in New York City and
subsequently the donation of said artifacts to the American Museum of
Natural History sometime after the expedition was completed.
Nine years later, in 1906, John and Louisa Wetherill along with their
business partner Clyde Colville established a trading post at Oljato, north
of Kayenta, Arizona and west of current day Goulding Trading Post near
Monument Valley. John and Louisa established a life-long friendship with
dean Byron Cummings of the University of Utah in Salt Lake City. Their
initial partnership included the mapping of Natural Bridges National
Monument in 1907. William Boone Douglas learned of the Great Natural Bridge
now known as Rainbow and attempted to reach that Bridge in 1908 but was
turned back by weather. A year later, in 1909, Cummings and Douglas
initiated what has become a long term controversy of the discovery of
Rainbow Bridge.
Betatakin was first viewed by the same party in 1909. Louisa or John were
told of the archaeological site by a Navajo man whose partial name survives
in the record as Nide Kloi Led by Navajo guide Clatsozin Benally they first
viewed the abandoned city then continued on into Nitsi Canyon to Inscription
House where John reported earlier visitors having left inscriptions as early
as 1883. John reported the naming of Inscription House by locating what was
believed to be an earlier Spanish inscription on the wall of a kiva.
What followed the 1909 expedition were claims by Fewkes, Hewett and Douglas
as the Betatakin discoverers, while Wetherill and Cummings maintained an
open and honest friendship and interest in surface sites and cliff dwelling
excavation in or near Navajo National Monument.
KEET SEEL
[Broken Pottery]Site # NA2520
Richard Wetherills discovery of Keet Seel and subsequent removal of
artifacts during the winter of 1894 and 1895 is an enigma. Information
regarding collection, notes, and photographs are nearly non-existent yet
Richards own writing suggests the removal of 400 pieces of pottery.
Whitmore/Bowles expedition of 1897 is traceable through the collections of
the American Museum of Natural History as the original collection was
purchased by the Hyde family for the museum collections sometime after the
Whitmore/Bowles Expedition to Marsh Pass. My interest here is an attempt at
unraveling a complex initial visit to Keet Seel by Richard Wetherill and his
excavation partners. Showing that an 1894 1895 expedition to Marsh Pass
occurred and that the collection obtained during that expedition of 1895 at
one time existed.
I include possible scenarios as to discovery locations and disposition of
artifacts from this expedition. Due to scant evidence, firm conclusions
cannot yet be reached as to the final resting place of a collection housing
400 pieces of Kayenta style pottery ware.
Frank McNitt, whose primary source of information was Marietta Wetherill as
well as two letters written to Talbot Hyde by Richard records that on a
chilly day in January of 1895 Richard Wetherill accompanied by his brother
Al and brother in law Charlie Mason entered Monument Valley region after
leaving Bluff City, Utah. McNitt creates further confusion on the expedition
when he states in a letter to Marietta Wetherill that Richard noted four men
accompanied the party. John Wetherill reports that five men accompanied the
brothers, undoubtedly one of those men was Wirt Jenks Billings who had
accompanied Richard on his excavations to Grand Gulch in 1894. According to
inscription information W.J. (Wirt Jenks Billings) was on that trip. The
issues are also muddied by McNitt entering his perceptions of geography,
site and Wetherill motivation into what nearly becomes a first person
narrative.
One must first understand the importance of entering this region. Hoskinnini,
once pursued by Hispanic men directed by Kit Carson, successfully avoided
the Long Walk by evading troops Hoskinini led his band through a complex
myriad of canyon systems surrounding Navajo Mountain. Kit Carson, or more
likely members of his group, named the area as Laguna Creek for the constant
marshes, and lakes found along the stream course. McNitt provides a
narrative for the appearance of Laguna Creek.
Small springs bubble up a cold, clear water at the head of each canyon.
The streams thus formed gradually widen and become cloudy with sand as they
flow on a twisting, shallow course downward to where the three forks of the
Tsegi open into one broad canyon six hundred feet deep. Here the streams
converge into one, becoming Laguna Creek which flows eastward along the
floor of the sandstone chasm to the mouth of the Tsegi at Marsh Pass. At
this point the stream abruptly turns off in a northerly direction until it
eventually joins with the Chinle Wash.
Hoskinnini, after his encounter with Kit Carsons armed militia, traveled
until his death in the early 1900s , with three armed guards on his
journeys through Navajo Mountain, Kayenta, Monumental Valley and Oljato.
Merrick and Mitchell, who were murdered in Monumental Valley searching for
the rumored Pishlaki Mine, were likely a direct result of Hoskinninis tight
control of the area. One did not venture into the Navajo Mountain area
during this era without a Navajo contact. My belief, based upon two reports,
is that Richard had a Navajo guide accompany him. Since they left Bluff,
very likely that man was Jim Joe. Jim Joe was the best candidate for being
the guide for Gustaf Nordenskiold in 1891 who refers to his guide as "Joe".
Without a doubt Jim Joe guided a trip to the Hopi Villages with Richard
Wetherill in 1895.
McNitt states that Richard Wetherills mule Neephi was the first discoverer
of Keet Seel. Three letters may help explain the expedition of 1894-95 . Two
of those are cited by McNitt as having been written to Talbot Hyde by
Richard Wetherill on June 3, 1895 and January 6, 1896. A third letter
explaining this collection and expedition is found missing the first pages
but was likely written by Richard after the 1897 expedition. Researchers
must also understand that McNitts primary source of oral history regarding
the matter was provided by Marietta Wetherill. Marietta was an excellent
story teller but more often than not created fiction from non-fiction.
Neephi, his lead mule, was a veteran of many hundreds of bone-sore
miles. During periods of recuperation at the Alamo Ranch, Richard described
Neephi as "fat and rolicky." Now, at some camp site between the mouth and
head of the canyon the men were following, and while they were asleep,
Neephi broke his hobbles and ambled off. A common enough occurrence, but one
Richard found sufficiently interesting to mention in a letter to Talbot
Hyde. [ This suggests that McNitt was working from a primary document.
Letters between Hyde and Wetherill stored at the American Museum of Natural
History may well include this letter.]
McNitts writings in Richard Wetherill Anasazi further confuse the issue by
paraphrasing two and possibly three expeditions causing confusion when
attempting a sorting of information regarding differences in discoveries
between the 1895 and 1897 expeditions.
Richard Wetherill states:
Before working the ruins in the canons of Laguna Creek a few of the
ruins in the vicinity of El Capitan and Moqui Rock were worked.
The Moqui Rock is situated on the north and west side of the Laguna Creek
where a small creek joins it from the west and north of the mesa La Vaca,
but sometimes called Squash Mountains. The rock is so called on account of
the great ruin upon the top. At the present time in ruins and the material
of which it had been made lies strewn on the ground beneath.
It was quite easy of access as the slope of the rock on the south is so easy
one can walk up. The height is not above 150 feet. The base of the rock will
perhaps occupy 3 or 4 acres while the apex is not 100 feet square.
Moquis Rock in 1897 is where Marietta reports that Teddy Whitmore and George
Bowles were captured and held for ransom by the Pah Utes. This account is
most likely fiction, a very common occurrence in the oral histories of
Marietta Wetherill.
Frank McNitt expressed those concerns in a letter dated January 18, 1954;
.Also, I am rather concerned because the chapter on the 1897 Grand
Gulch trip, based entirely upon your husbands field notes and letters
written at the time by him, John and Talbot Hyde, is curiously at variance
with your story of the Paiute kidnapping. According to the information I
have, Teddy Whitmore and George Bowles were kidnapped by Indians and held
for several days on Moqui Rock-near Kayenta-before they were released when
ransom money was paid. There is no reference, in the field notes or letters,
to any other episode of this sort and it rather disturbs me. I hope that
before the book gets into print we can clear up this matter.
Richard continued with his explanation of the excavations completed in 1895.
Burial Places are situated all around in regular burial mounds within
1-4 of a miles of the rock
One good one with skeletons protruding lies not more than 200 feet south on
the opposite side of the creek. This one is unworked. One on the west and
touching the rock had two skeletons taken out by us but the burials being so
near the surface nothing was worth saving except that we had been better
equipped with pack animals.
Down the creek about 1 mile is a mound that we worked out well, although it
was all done in a vile sandstorm that extended over several days making it
utterly impossible to photograph anything. Near this mound is a small cave
in the rocks to the north which has a spring of very fine cold water. It
drips from rocks above into a basin now kept open by the Navajo. This will
furnish water for a party with 15 or 20 pack animals. Grass can be found on
the mesa above or in a small canon running to the clear creek, 4 miles due
N.W. from this point. This canon contains many ruins. A few of the articles
catalogued came from there. Water also seems abundant.
This region for 2 or 3 miles on either side of the arroya or creek is very
rich in fallen houses or burial mounds.
About these ruins immense quantities of broken pottery is found a great
proportion of which is red with black decoration.
This is the marsh Pass region and in the pass which is a fine Valley 4 or 5
miles long and a mile wide are cliff houses in the caves overlooking the
valley. Towers upon the most conspicuous points and near the pot holes in
the rocks from which the water supply was obtained except in the case of one
very picturesque cliff house which has a fine spring in the back part, and
at one other point a cottonwood tree was seen growing from the rocks, an
indication that water was near.
The cliff house before mentioned had one room containing the valuables of
several Navajo families. Visits there three different years found them there
each time. One burial mound that was previously worked proved to be very
rich in pottery and burials, more than 100 skeletons being removed and more
than 400 pieces of pottery being saved and brought away entire. Farther on
through the Pass and on Moen Copie drainage larger ruins exist which some
day will furnish much good material to the proper kind of an investigator,
especially should the pueblo on the edge of the mesa La Vaca overlooking the
pass, as not a shovel has touched it.
Frank McNitts summation of the above reads as:
We dug from one burial mound 400 pieces of pottery very fine. At least
one-half of it is red {polychrome}this is by all odds the finest collection
of pottery that I have seen.
If we assume that McNitts quote is accurate, evidence is presented here of
an earlier letter providing more detailed descriptions of the 1895
excavations. McNitt cites a second letter written in 1896 shedding further
light on the excavations and the area.
The following January, when it appeared that the Hyde brothers would
have Richard lead an expedition to the Marsh Pass area in the coming summer,
Richard compared the relative difficulties and cost of work in Canyon de
Chelly, and Tsegi Canyon, advising that from the standpoint of expense, the
Tsegi would prove more costly but its cliff dwellings would yield better
relics for a collection. His own preference for working once more in Kiet
Siel and its neighboring ruins is expressed in a letter to Talbot Hyde dated
January 6, 1896.
"I think I wrote you of the ruins of Canon Du Cheusen [de Chelly]. If not,
the cost of getting to and from them will be slightly less than going to the
head of the Chelle-which is the best place I have ever yet found to find
Relicsat least 20 articles will be found per day per manfor instance we
dug in 4 days last year what it took 20 days to get out.
Information provided in Richards letter suggests that their effort in 1895
were in large mound and burial sites found along Laguna Creek and in a large
site near Kayenta, Arizona referred to as Moquis Rock.
No other work was done by this party, but it was proven to the
satisfaction of all that it was feasible to get into the Navajo Canon
Country and that a working party would receive much assistance from both the
Navajo and Pah Utes. It is adviseable to take mules for saddle animals. It
is a long and wearisome thirsty desert country to walk over and punch
burros.
Above description seems to be the last of Richards explanation of
excavation from the 1895 expedition. Past this point he describes their 1897
expedition.
On our return to Bluff our party was broken up and relics shifted to
Mancos by wagon, Mormans [sic.} being willing to do this work for 1 cents
per pound.
Very likely the Mormon Packer was Dan Perkins Perkins was paid $50 on the
24th of July 1895. This would indicate 4000 pounds of freight was hauled by
Perkins to Mancos.
Inscriptions left by the Wetherill party play a crucial role in
understanding the where and when of both the 1895 and 1897 expeditions.
Several inscription inventories have been taken in the area most notably by
James Knipmeyer, Andrew Christiansen and myself. A thorough search and
recording as is now developed by Mesa Verde National Parks Site Assessment
Team has yet to be conducted and would prove valuable.
What information is now available is not clear cut. A Richard Wetherill
inscription in Keet Seel is noted by all.
Frank McNitt states:
Richard scrawled his initial and surname with a fire-blackened
stick---"R. Wetherill"---at the far central rear of the cave. Under it he
wrote the date, but this has been crossed out.
McNitt goes on to explain, without citation, that Richard worked within the
site for four days. He then cites the June 3, 1895 letter.
I have just returned from there [and] met with good success.
[Neglecting to point out he had discovered the second largest cliff dwelling
in the Southwest, he went on to say:] " We dug from one burial mound 400
pieces of pottery---very fine. At least one-half of it is red
[polychrome]this is by all odds the finest collection of pottery that I
have seen. This is the best place to get a collection I every sawit
requires work but the results are satisfactory. The best cliff houses that I
have seen are in that country and not one has been dug into one house in
particular [Kiet Siel} containing 115 rooms. 75 are as perfect as though
just left. The rooms are clean roofs all one altogether it is the place to
study the subject."
McNitt assumes that because of the size of the cliff dwelling that Richard
spoke of Kiet Siel. However, was it possible he was referring to Poncho
House instead? Indeed that may be the case, but does the inscription found
in Keet Seel relate to that 1895 exploration or does it relate to the later
1897 expedition? Or possibly to both?
Fred Blackburn believes that the W. Billings-April 1895 and Richard
Wetherill and ? found in Cave 4 [as named by Kidder and Guernsey in 1915]
are remnants of the 1895 expedition. James Knipmeyer records the 1895
inscriptions in Cave 4 and adds a 1894 R. Wetherill inscription in Ladder
House and an 1895 R. Wetherill inscription at Bubbling Spring suggesting
that yes indeed the Wetherill group was within the upper Tsegi Canyon in
1895.
Within Keet Seel Ruin are undated inscriptions from Richard Wetherill and
Charlie Mason which could have been from either 1895 or 1897 without further
documentation we may never know on which expedition they were placed. R.
Wetherill charcoal inscription shows obliteration of two items below the
name. Perhaps these reflect both years of his visit, but without further
documentation these are suspect.
Andrew Christiansens work from 1990 indicates a C.C. Mason-Mancos
inscription at Keet Seel with no date, a Wetherill 1897 date and the R.
Wetherill inscription recorded at Turkey Cave and Ladder House by Knipmeyer
but records no date.
Other than the letter from John Wetherill and notes by McNitt we do not have
a clear view of those on the 1895 expedition. They suggest Richard, Al and
Charlie Mason, yet that may not be the case. The only hard proof of who was
there is left as signatures on the Canyon Walls and the only two we could
possibly confirm are Wirt Jenks Billings and Richard Wetherill.
Lack of notes, photographs and brief descriptions along with scanty
inscription evidence suggests that Richard may have not reached Keet Seel
until 1897. McNitt states that in 1897:
On this occasion he took measurement of Kiet Siel and diagrammed its
floor plan, but his drawing later was separated from his field notes and has
been lost. His description of Kiet Siel and its neighboring ruins survives.
Perhaps one reason for the lack of notes in 1895 is found within the type of
excavations. Dealing with large surface burial sites without easily
recognized room demarcations or assemblages may have seemed beyond their
capabilities of mapping. Richards experience up to that time were
excavations among recognizable architectural provenances. However, that does
not explain the total lack of notes associating artifacts to burials.
Richard and his brothers were well trained in this provenance method by
1895. More likely the lack of written documentation is associated with how
the artifacts were sold at the completion of the excavation.
McNitt goes on to note that during the 1897 expedition;
Many ruins he had not seen on his previous trips were discovered now by
Richards party in the region .
John Wetherills notes on the 1895 expedition sheds further doubt on
Richards excavation and arrival into Keet Seel as being in 1897.
They were there in December, 1894. They had left Bluff City, Utah, with a
party of five men, worked up the Chinle Creek, to what is now Kayenta Creek,
and up the Laguna Canyon, now called Tsegi, and up Kiet Siel Canyon, to the
Kiet Siel ruins. On the way they visited many ruins, including what is now
called Poncho House and Swallows Nest. They just made a hurried
reconnaissance trip. At that time they did no excavation work, as the other
men had been left at Ruin Point, near Kayenta Spring, to work out the
mounds. From here they visited Piute and Navajo Canyon, with all its
different branches.
John explains the route taken in the fall of 1896 that eventually ended
their explorations in the Tsegi.
In the fall of 1896, Richard Wetherill, heading the Whitman [Whitmore]
and Bowler [Bowles] Expeditions, left Mancos, Colorado. Whitman [Whitmore]
was a young man of nineteen years whose mother put up the money for the
expeditions, and Bowler [Bowles] was his tutor. The party came through Bluff
City, Utah, to Grand Gulch, where the first Basket Makers were found in
1892. They then followed up the Chinle to the mouth of Kayenta (Laguna)
Creek, visiting and working in many ruins, and doing excavating,
photographing, and mapping out the larger ruins. From the mouth of the
Kayenta, they worked the mounds to the Marsh Pass at the mouth of the Tsegi.
From the mouth of the Tsegi, they worked the Tsegi and most of its branches,
to the head of the canyon. In this expedition, they visited the Kiet Siel
but did little work there, as they had all the material they wanted.
John continues his explanation of the first excavations of Kiet Seel
somewhat contradicting the statement above. He continues with a long
explanation of visitors who excavated or claimed the discovery.
The first work at Kiet Siel was done by a party led by Richard
Wetherill, and financed by Theodore Bower [Bowles] in 1897. They left
Mancos, Colorado, in October, 1896, and reached Kiet Siel in March 1897. The
notes, plans, photographs, and artifacts were turned over to the American
Museum of Natural History, New York. W.B. Douglas surveyed and made a plan
in August, 1909. Dr. J. Walter Fewkes, of the Smithsonian Institution,
visited the Kiet Siel ruins in September, 1909, and made out a report that
came out later. There was a report of 1909 gotten out by Dean Cummings for
the University of Utah.
In 1908 Charlie Spencer visited the ruins with a party of prospectors and
mining men. A few days later I took Edgar L. Hewett in. He was one of Dean
Cummings party, which at that time was working in the Tsegi, for the
University of Utah. In 1909 W.B. Douglas, of the Land Office in Washington,
D.C., looked over the ruins and decided they should be made into a National
Monument. Dean Cummings visited them in the fall of 1908. J. Walter Fewkes
visited them after Douglas was there and built a road up the Canyon, as far
as the high falls, so that he could get his wife to Kiet Siel. In June 1910,
Dr. Mitchell Prudden made a trip with a light wagon. He expected to meet Dr.
Fewkes in the Canyon, but Fewkes had moved out a days before we arrived. We
drove our light rig as far as Dogoshi Biko, and then took horses to Kiet
Siel. Two weeks after Pruddens trip, Fewkes road work was all washed out
and was never fixed again, until 1918, when the government got out logs for
the Kayenta Dam. The road was gone again the same summer.
According to John little work was completed in Keet Seel in either the 1895
or 1897 visits by Richard to Keet Seel. This is fairly well verified by the
existing inscription documentation. Therefore, a mass of artifacts was
likely accumulated in the mounds near Kayenta and in Marsh Pass, as well as
Poncho House with little effort made towards the headwaters of Laguna Creek.
This seems somewhat verified by Donald Beauregard in his August 29, 1909
article which reads;
When the wonder of the place finally permits one to look around a little
more closely, one sees all sorts and shapes of pottery that lie in shreds on
the roofs and floors where they have been admirably preserved from decay but
sadley broken In fact such an abundance of broken pottery is found scattered
promiscuously around the ruins that the Navajos have named it Keet seel,
meaning broken pottery. This is the name likely to be retained in the
future. Most of the pottery is of the finest quality in designs of black and
white which indicates a developed art in that direction that has not been
rivaled. Some of the large ollas, particularly, measuring two feet across
are perfect both in shape and design.
Scattered on the roofs of houses are also numerous mantatas [sic.] , manos,
etc., that were used for grinding grains which shows that they were still an
agricultural people and serves also to indicate that during occupation there
were many families living there together, each one having their own set of
grinders, the most important utensils that they used.
STONE AXES
Several fine stone axes are lying about evidently discarded ones but of
excellent workmanship and on examining the various timbers about the walls
and roofs one can easily see that they were all cut with stone axes from the
gnawed off appearance of the ends. One huge timber lying directly across the
front of the outer walls, possibly used at one time for a prop or support
with a length of 40 feet and 14 inches in diameter, was cut and trimmed with
stone axes which must have required considerable patience, skill, strength
and time to cut, showing an admirable side of their character.
Other than these there are not visible relics of importance and it remains
now to be thoroughly excavated and restored which means considerable expense
and time and undoubtedly rich returns.
We know the collection was taken through the journal kept by W. H. Muldoon
Kelly recorded in August of 1895 a few months after the initial visit by the
Wetherill brothers.
The afternoon travel brought the party along the south side of
Monumental Valley, heretofore thought to be the grandest display of
obelisks, statuary, pyramids, etc., in the universe. We were at least
twenty-five miles from the valley, but for seven hours that beautiful
picture was in plain view.
El Capitan, a volcanic eruption, stands at the western sentinel of the
valley, looming up one thousand feet or more from the level plain, and then
to the west and south the pass over Mesa la Vaca adds grandeur to the scene.
In this latter neighborhood some of the most wonderful cliff ruins on the
continent have been found. These were not invaded by the party, but Dick
Wetherill had spent a part of last winter and early spring in their
explorations, and the best collection of ancient pottery yet unearthed is
witness to his researches.
Richards arrival in Mancos after the 1895 work in the Kayenta district is
recorded in the Mancos Times newspaper, yet there is little or no evidence
in the Wetherill Family archives of it ever having happened.
The first Mancos Times article mentioning Wetherill brothers whereabouts in
1895 occurs on March 1, 1895 when Kelly reports them placer mining on the
lower San Juan River. This brings up the question as to which brothers
accompanied Richard to the Kayenta area.
Word has been received from the Wetherill boys who are engaged in placer
mining on the lower San Juan, that they are taking out an ounce of gold per
day to the man, when they can work. The numerous floods of the river at this
time of the year are a great detriment to the work.
On May 24, 1895 Kelly reports the arrival of Richard Wetherill at the Alamo
Ranch.
Richard Wetherell (sic.) has returned to Alamo Ranch after a winters
outing among the Cliff Dwellings on the Navajo Indian reservation. He
brought in with him some perfect specimens of Aztec pottery. Unlike that
heretofore unearthed, this pottery is highly decorated and is of red,
instead of gray, color, much resembling that manufactured by the Moquis
Indians of the pottery.
Dick Wetherill tarries long amid the new discoveries he has made of Cliff
Dwellings, and he will more than likely bring in some rare curios.
W.H. Kelly hoped that Richard would provide an article to the paper on his
recent Kayenta District discoveries, but true to the information surrounding
this expedition Richard never completed the article. A lack of information
suggests a preferred silence for the discoveries. Kelly notes on June 7,
1895;
As soon as Dick Wetherill gets rested up he will give the readers of the
TIMES some information about what he has accomplished in the way of
explorations among the Aztec ruins during the past winter.
Many distinguished visitors came to the Alamo Ranch during the summer of
1895 any number of which could have purchased the collection obtained by
Richard earlier that year among them were a Mr. Tansill of Punch Cigar fame,
Senator Teller and executives of the railroad. On July 12, 1895 a very
curious thing happens in Mancos that may relate to the dispersal and sale of
the collection. Kelly records that;
Cliff Dwelling Relics
C.F. Berger arrived in town last week with a grand collection of Cliff
Dwelling and Aztec relics which he gathered last winter during his
exploration among ancient ruins in Arizona and New Mexico. John Bauer
purchased them as an addition to his already well filled museum of Indian
curios, as jewelry, Navajo blankets, pottery, etc., and now, second only to
the Wetherill collection, he has the finest display to be found anywhere.
His new purchase consists of vases, water jars, cooking utensils, and other
pottery, all of handsome designs, most of it unbroken, stone axes, knives,
skulls, etc., etc. Mr. Bauer extends an invitation to call and inspect. Any
of the collection is for sale at very reasonable prices.
What is very curious about this collection relates to an inscription
recorded by Andrew Christiansen in Turkey Cave that reads:
F. Burger, Rico, Colorado 96
Is there a possibility of error in recording this inscription date and name
or are there errors in spelling referring to C.F. Berger above by Kelly. A
strong possibility exists that Burger or Berger is the same person who
brought the collection from New Mexico and Arizona to Mancos. Burger or
Berger may have excavated collections in Keet Seel or the Kayenta District
as well. Perhaps he was one of the men with Wetherill in 1895.
The trail gets murkier with another article reported by Kelly On July 19,
1895;
Monday last Superintendent Lee of the Southern, took over the road an
excursion part of eastern schoolmarms, consisting of twenty individuals.
They arrived here at 4:30 p.m. and spent a half an hour in examining an
interesting collection of Indian curios and Cliff Dwelling relics kindly
placed on exhibition at the depot by the Wetherills and John Bauer.
This is the last newspaper reference which may relate to the collection from
the Kayenta District. Several possibilities exist at this point. Both
collections were sold as a result of their exhibit at the train depot and
departed for points yet unknown; they were sold to a single buyer who then
donated the items; artifacts were sold to a foreign buyer and the collection
left the United States.
Secrecy surrounding 1895 collection by the Wetherill family is perplexing.
Harvey Leake, great grandson of John Wetherill relates that the Alamo Ranch
was suffering financial difficulties during this time. Harvey provides
another scenario for the disposition of the collection and a very valid
reason to dig deeper into the correspondence with Talbot Hyde and the
American Museum of Natural History collections.
John said the artifacts came from "Ruin Point" near Kayenta Spring, and
that the Tsegi ruins were not excavated on the 1894-95 expedition. He also
says that they were sold to the Hydes. This seems to agree with a Hyde
notation on one of Richards letters stating that the artifacts, field
notes, etc. had arrived.
A probability, undocumented in the Alamo Ranch ledgers, suggests that the
collection may have been traded in lieu of debt perhaps to George Bauer who
has numerous interactions in store and banking with B.K. Wetherill and his
family. The other possibility and one that I have pursued to my ability is
that the collection was sold to an overseas buyer. After the experience with
the arrest and detaining of Gustaf Nordenskiold in Durango in 1891 and the
Wetherill excavators arrested in Mancos Canyon a year later in 1892 Richard
would have been very reluctant to advertise an overseas sale which would
result in similar embarrassment to family and buyer. With that in mind I
pursued notes by John Wetherill stating collections went to Germany and
London in hopes that one of those locations would provide the answer to
locating the artifacts.
1897 Expedition to Keet Seel
Richard was in Chaco when he learned of a potential trip reportedly headed
by Frederick Ward Putnam to Grand Gulch. The expedition was to occur in the
fall of 1896 causing Richard to hurriedly recruit a donor for his own
expedition. He expressed his concern to Hyde but the Hyde family seemed
reluctant to retrace prior ground. Richard was able to find Teddy Whitmore
and his student George Bowles, a student from wealth, and recruit their
interest in funding a return exploration to Grand Gulch. Conditions were
severe in Grand Gulch during the winter of 1897; feed was gone do most
likely to the introduction of cattle, despite that both Richard and Marietta
kept separate notes of the excavation. They soon departed to Bluff where
Richard left Marietta and Uncle Clayt Tompkins most likely to record and
register the objects found in Grand Gulch. Clayt lost both of his legs
during the civil war though proved quite useful in cataloguing collections.
Richard turned south, very likely with Navajo Guide [s] to first visit
Poncho House which he called Long House along the De Chelle [Chinle Wash].
Since my early work on the Wetherill/Grand Gulch Material did not include
his trek to the Kayenta Region I did not search for their documentation
after leaving Bluff City. I recall the photographs of them working in Poncho
House but recall no photographs taken in the Kayenta District. Further
research with the American Museum of Natural History and the Hyde collection
may shed further light on that expedition. Most of the photographs, at least
while in Grand Gulch, froze and broke possibly accounting for the lack of
photographs taken in the Kayenta District.
At the conclusion of the expedition Frank McNitt records Richard hoped to
sell the collection, rumored at 2000 artifacts for $5500. He would split the
collection proceeds with Whitmore and Bowles. Richard eventually settled for
a sale to the Hyde brothers of $3000 in January of 1898.
Richard, according to McNitt, was badly in debt. He sent a postscript to
Hyde in 1898 stating;
My interest in this collection is to be paid to Mrs. R. Wetherill except
$100.00 which you can have sent to me by express
McNitt notes those who accompanied Richard in 1897 through Richards field
notes found in the American Museum of Natural History collections.
C.E. Whitmore and George Bowles furnished the money to carry on the work
and each took an active part doing all in their power to make a success, Hal
Heaton was a visiting member but proved to be very useful, at first in the
work of excavation and later as chief assistant in the culinary department.
Levi Carson and E.C. Cushman had charge of the pack train after camp was
located in Grand Gulch. Making weekly trips for supplies and horse feed to
Bluff City which was the base of supplies. Here we had a commissary tent in
charge of C.M. Tomkins [Tompkins] {Clayton Tompkins, Richards uncle and
brother of Marion Wetherill} whose sole business it was to take care of and
store the relics as they came in and issue goods to the packers.
Clayton Wetherill and G. Bowles looked after the riding stock and pack
animals not in use, looked up fresh workings and kept the camp in fresh
meat. At odd times {they} would help in excavating and always in moving
camp.
George Hangrove [Hairgrove] had charge of the kitchen and found the duties
very onerous as he had to be up at 4 a.m. to get the morning meal in time.
Storms and frequent movings did not tend to lighten the work. Jas. Ethridge,
O.H. Buck, C.C. Mason, Bert Hindman and R. Wetherill were in the excavation
continuously, and all others whenever other duties pertaining to the work
did not interfere. Mrs. R. Wetherill kept the notes and records and helped
much in the measurements, etc. {Another member of the party, William
Henderson, Richard forgot or failed to mention.}
A Deseret News article published by Donald Beauregard on August 29, 1909
sheds light on the controversy initiated by Edgar Hewitts claim of the Keet
Seel discovery. Stuart M. Young, who was the photographer for the expedition
led by John Wetherill, provides some of the earliest photographs of Keet
Seel while accompanying this group.
As with the discovery of Rainbow Bridge, Keet Seel and Betatakin would
become the subject of whom saw it first. Beauregard addresses the conflict;
Stant [missing two words] cliff ruin brought to the notice of the world
since the discovery of Cliff Palace in the mesa Verda [sic.], Col., has for
the first time been thoroughly examined and photographed by our
archaeological expedition. It is next to the Cliff Palace in size,
containing 150 standing rooms, for the most part in excellent condition. It
was discovered in 1894 by Richard Wetherill of Pueblo Bonito, N.M. It was
revisited again by Mr. Wetherill in 1897, and then left untouched until this
summer when John Wetherill of Oljato, Utah, who has been one of our party
most of the summer and one of the most active men in American archaeological
discoveries, guided Dr. Hewitt there in June. Later Mr. Wetherill and Prof.
Cummings visited the place and our party has finally reached it with the
unanimous opinion that we have seen one of the greatest sights in the world.
ERRONEOUS REPORTS
News has already been flashed by the Denver Post and followed by other
incidental papers both east and west by the Associated Press that Dr. Hewitt
is the discoverer, further mentioning other imaginary finds such as mammoth
caves out measuring those of Kentucky as natural bridges greater than those
in southern Utah. This is an entirely false report and does grave injustice
both to our expedition and Mr. Wetherill, who in conjunction with his wife,
has been attempting to locate these supposed wonders for several years,
following clues and substantiating vague rumors that the Navajos and Utes
are loath to let escape. Dr. Hewitt has not discovered any marvelous caves
or bridges and he would not have seen the cliff ruin had it not been for our
expedition. Last summer Prof., Cummings, Mr. Wetherill and party attempted
to locate the place, bearing the expense of the trip themselves, and failing
only through lack of information as to its exact location. This summer our
party pushed directly for the place and Dr. Hewitt whose expenses were paid
by the expedition, chanced to be the one guided there by Mr. Wetherill, who
had succeeded in the meantime in locating the place through information from
the Navajos. This to give honor where honor is due and to rectify false and
erroneous reports.
This initial volley by Edgar Hewett would be only the beginning in the fight
for dwellings of the Tsegi.
ARTIFACT REPOSITORIES and FUTURE RESEARCH
I attempt a review of potential archives for this collection.
The British Museum appears to be a dead end. Which museum John Wetherill
refers to having purchased artifacts requires further research in finding
the Wetherill collection.
The Ethnologisches Museum Berlin hosts a collection purchased at the 1904
Worlds Fair in Saint Louis. There appears to me a need for follow up
research on the Edward Seler collection even though I suspect the 1895
materials were long gone before this sale.
The Wetherill collection at the University of Pennsylvania as noted by Jesse
Nusbaum ;
Likewise, Deric says that the University of California received through
the gift of Mrs. Phoebe Hearst, about half of the Wetherill collection that
was exhibited on the midway at the Chicago Worlds Fair of 1893, the other
half being given to the University of Penna. Museum. Since the latter
received its Wetherill collection in 1896, I assume this year of accession
holds for the University of California collection. Deric, who has surveyed
both collections states that the University of Penna. Section includes a
large lot of 4---corner Kayenta District pottery, and that the University of
California collections contains some of the above plus some Grand Gulch
Material. Ill also attempt to clear up the data on these collections in
due course.
The University of Pennsylvania collection seems to hold the best potential
for collections from Kayenta and Marsh Pass area. The date is correct for
having access to those items and I would recommend beginning here.
Deric Nusbaum also states the viewing of a collection in Toronto of
materials from Acowitz Canyon. This is also an unknown collection at the
moment but likely does not deal with any materials from the Kayenta
District.
The last location to look for information on the 1895 expedition would be at
the American Museum of Natural History. All letters of correspondence, notes
etc. should be viewed with an eye for a mixing of information and/or
photographs from the 1895 expedition. They have recently scanned all
photographs related to the Hyde collection and a quick view of them will
connect to the information I provide in the summary. Possible leads include
finding the diagram reported to have been completed by Richard of Keet Seel.
In summary I recommend concentrating further archive research efforts by
priority of the American Museum of Natural History, University of
Pennsylvania and Berlin.
FURTHER RESEARCH IN INSCRIPTION DOCUMENTATION
Although their have been at least three attempted surveys of InscriptionS
from Marsh Pass to Keet Seel I believe that a thorough search using
technological and documentation techniques perfected at Mesa Verde National
Park would benefit understanding movements of Anglo intrusions into Laguna
Creek and the Tsegi.
BETATAKIN
Be Ta Ta Kin
The first white men to visit it was dean Cummings and party Aug 9, 1909
taken to the ruin by Clatsozen Bennelly. There was little found in the ruins
except broken. Its position [sic.] in the rocks makes it the most
picturesque of the cliff ruins.
WHAT VIVID IMAGINATIONS THESE ARCHAEOLOGISTS HAVE!
Little did John Wetherill understand that with the race to Rainbow Bridge
followed by 1908 and 1909 visits by William Boone Douglas, Edgar Hewett and
Jesse Fewkes, he as had his brothers, was placed directly in the path of
archaeological and political ambition.
Although brief I provide some perspectives on John and Louisa Wetherills
involvement in the discovery of Betatakin. Louisa and John maintained a long
and trusting friendship with Byron Cummings.
Byron Cummings had completed a trip to the Natural Bridges of Utah in 1907
again using as packer Dan Perkins of Bluff, Utah. This expedition likely led
to William Boone Douglas, who also completed his survey of Natural Bridges,
to learn of Rainbow Bridge.
Jesse Nusbaum, attempting to understand the expeditions of John
Wetherill, compiled a list of his expeditions in which he attempted to
clarify the sequence of events leading to the discovery of Betatakin.
1908-After completing the dig on Alkali Ridge [side note here stating:
"Kidder Supervisor, J.L.N. Geological for 1 week] Cummings and member of his
party, Neil Judd met John Wetherill at Bluff forwarded to Oljeto Trading
post from which he guided them to near by ruins and by packer outfit,
conducted them to ruins in Segi Canyon. At Bluff John told Cummings of the
great rock rainbow [crossed out: stone bridge} (Rainbow Bridge) when they
met him at Bluff, Utah, and Wm. Boone Douglas probably learned of it on his
return to Bluff from the survey of Natl Bridges Natl Monument, as they
didnt meet him there. [Side note fwd on Douglasss instruction of Sept 20,
1907]
1909- August, Rainbow Bridge Discovery Trip with John Wetherill as guide and
packer, and first excavations in Segi Canyon, Discovered Betatakin on this
trip while John Wetherill had not ever seen, also visited Keet Seel, Ladder
House, Inscription House, prev. known; and explored the ruins in Nitsui
Canyon, south of Navajo Mtn.
[Nide-kloi??] who lived in Tsegi gave Mrs. Wetherill the data that led
to discovery of Betatakin by John W. and Cummings.
PAGE H-1
Also 1909-cont.
[Referencing the publication-"Traders to the Navajos by Frances Gillmor"]
John told Dr. Herbert E. Gregory of the U.S.G.S. of the great rock rainbow,
Rainbow, in July 1909 but he would not move to discover it that year. So he
later told Cummings and his party of it that fall of Ute Rock Rainbow which
the One Eyed man of the Salt Clan [Likely Theodore One Salt] and Laughter
had sot in rain. [sic.]
On Aug. 1909, Dean Cummings, his son Malcom, his nephew Neil Judd, Donald
Bureaugard and Stuart Young came as guide he conducted them to Tsegi Canyon
where Charlie Mason and Richard W. had carved their names in 1894 when they
[unknown word] at and found Keet Seel Ruin. Also saw Inscription House,
Discovered Betatakin. Nasja begay [sic.] Paiute guide who led them to
Rainbow Bridge. John Wetherill and Cummings were first under the bridge on
Aug 14, 1909. Douglas and others, moments later.
Jesse Fewkes published a Preliminary Report on a visit to the Navajo
National Monument Arizona with the Smithsonian Institute-Bureau of American
Ethnology Bulletin 50 in 1911. He lauded praise on Douglas for his fine work
on collecting photographs and data from the dwellings of Navajo National
Monument when in fact Douglass obtained maps, possibly photographs and much
information from John Wetherill and Byron Cummings neglecting to credit
their part in the data gathering. Fewkes introduction in the report barely
recognizes Cummings and Wetherill work in the area.
A few years ago information was obtained from Navaho by Richard and John
Wetherill of the existence of some of the large cliff-houses on laguna creek
and its branches; the latter has guided several parties to them. Among other
visitors in 1909 may be mentioned Dr. Edgar L. Hewett, director of the
School of American Archaeology of the Archaeological Institute of America. A
party (b) from the University of Utah, under direction of Prof. Byron
Cummings, has dug extensively in the ruins and obtained a considerable
collection.
The sites of several ruins in the Navaho National Monument, (c) which was
created on his recommendation, have been indicated by Mr. William B.
Douglass, United States Examiner of Surveys, General Land Office, on a map
accompanying the presidents proclamation, and also on a recent map issued
by the General Land Office. Although his report has not yet been published,
he has collected considerable data, including photographs of Betatakin,
Kitsiel, and the ruin called Inscription House situated in the Nitsi canyon,
While Mr. Douglass does not claim to be the discoverer of these ruins,
credit is due him for directing the attention of the Interior department to
the antiquities of this region and the desirability of preserving them.
The two ruins (d) in Nitsi, (e) West canyon, are not yet included in the
Navaho Monument, but according to Mr. Douglass these are large ones, being
300-350 feet long, respectively, (f) and promise a rich field for
investigation. That these ruins will yield large collections is indicated by
the fact that the several specimens of minor antiquities in a collection
presented to the Smithsonian Institution by Mr. Janus, the best of which are
her figured (pls. 15-18), came from this neighborhood, possibly, from one of
these ruins.
b. Since the writers return to Washington this party has spent several
months at Betatakin.
c. Mr. Douglass has furnished the writer the following data from his report
regarding the positions of the most important ruins in the Navaho National
Monument:
Latitude Longitude
Kitsiel, 36o 45 33" north 110o 3140" west
Betatakin, 36o 4057" north. 110o 34 01" west
Inscription House, 36o 40 14" north 110 o 51 32" west
d. One of these is designated Inscription House on Mr. Douglass map
(pl.22)
e. According to one Navajo the meaning of this word is "antelope drive"
referring to the resemblance of the canyon to such a structure.
f. For photographs of Kitsiel (p.1) and of Inscription House ( here pl.2),
published by courtesy in advance of Mr. Douglass reeport, the writer is
indebted to the general Land Office. Acknowledgment is made to the same
office for ground plans of Kitsiel and Betatakin, which were taken from Mr.
Douglasss report.
.
Byron Cummings and Richard Wetherill worked together excavating Betatakin
shortly after their initial discovery. Claiming Betatatkin as their
discovery led to expectations of their continuing excavations. Those plans
would soon go awry with the meddling of William Boone Douglas.
William Boone Douglas did not wait long to claim credit for the Rainbow
Bridge. He rushed to Cortez Colorado where the Montezuma Journal published
his version of being first at the great Rainbow. Douglas soon attempted a
second discovery claim regarding Betatakin. Douglas sent a warning volley at
Cummings through a letter sent to John Wetherill while in Cortez.
Is Prof. Cummings still with you? I believe it would be very unwise of
him to remove anything found in the area embraced in the presidential
proclamation until he gets express permission from the Secretary of the
Interior.
I had a telegram about that which I intended showing him but forgot it in my
hasty departure. My regards to him and Mrs. Wetherill and Mr. Colville.
I presume Mr. W. has returned. I never saw anyone who could get a party over
so much ground in so short a time as he.
John Wetherill received a letter from Cummings on April 27, 1910. Within the
letter Cummings addresses the territorial dispute created by Jesse Fewkes;
In regard to Hewett and his work, I could not find in Washington any
publication for Professor Gregorys statement to you last summer. Hewetts
work seems now to be on a good foundation and is gaining strength every day.
A plan has been arranged between Hewett and Hodge, who is now head of the
Beaureau [sic.] of ethnology, by which the American institute and the
department of the Interior are to cooperate in the work in the Southwest-and
there is to be no duplication of territory and the work the coming summer is
to be in the Rio Grand valley. Hewett promises that we shall have the
opportunity of finishing Betatakin "and cleaning out and studying Keit Seel"
and be protected on our rights to work the other portions of that region
that we desire. I talked matters over freely with Pierce and also
considerably with Smoot. Their judgement was that it would be very difficult
to go on with the work (that is to secure a permit to do so) until I
returned to take the [pell?] of the party. They had overruled objections so
far and grant the permits; but they both said it would be a difficult task
to secure another unless they were able to say that an experienced professor
would be in personal charge of the work. They thought it would be much
better to let the matter rest where it is until I can take the field again
and in the meantime they will endeavor to protect our rights against all
corners. It is terrible, I know, to inform you that you are liable to have
me loaded onto you again but you know that I like the majority, lose
sight-of other peoples likes and dislikes..
I was unable to secure a personal interview with Hodge as he was out of town
and I was unable to prolong my stay until he would return. There is jealousy
in Smithsonian over our work in that region. Fewkes seems to be behind it;
but Holmes is now head of the museum and I think matters will run more
smoothly. Fewkes thinks that because of his work among the Hopis he is the
only man able to do the work in your region and that the territory should be
saved for him. But he is getting old and childish, they say: and will be
unable to do the work undoubtedly. He has more on hand now than he can
complete. Miss Fletcher told me incidentally that she attended a lecture
given by Fewkes after he returned to Washington from that trip into your
country last fall and that it was almost ludicrous to one who knew anything
about the facts. He posed as the discoverer of "Keetseel" and "Betatakin"
and told wonderful tales of the perils encountered in reaching this
inaccessible region, etc. What vivid imaginations these archaeologists have!
I suppose he thought he must do Hewett one better.
Despite the conflict erupting for Wetherill and Cummings over archaeological
territory ,instigated by Edgar Hewett and Jesse Fewkes, Cummings urged
tolerance. Cummings respected Hewetts effort placed towards solidifying his
institute in Santa Fe. An Institute that evolved as School of American
Research.
In spite, however, of the unpleasant things we have met, I do not think
it wise to break relationship with Hewett and the Institute yet.
The Institute is surely the great factor in archaeology to-day; and we can
hope for more through it than from the government. Hewett has his faults
like the rest of us; but he is energetic and does things within a
generation. The Institute has a good plan in operation and I believe the
results are going to be good and Hewett is learning some things from
experience. To show you how the plan of the institute and Hewetts work
appeals to men, I found the Carnegie Foundation for Research wants to adopt
the plan and Hewett also and furnish the means for carrying it out. Hewett
apologizes for those newspaper articles and they certainly have hurt him
more than anyone else. I found that he did make a report of our data
collected in 1907, but left only notes with the subordinate secretary who
prepared the presentation to Roosevelt and did not leave the papers on file.
He did us a wrong then and the committee says it shall be corrected.
Douglass took advantage of the fact that there was nothing on record and
secured permit to do the work over. I cannot find that he has very much
standing anywhere. I am sorry for him.
Our plans will be to secure a permit and go ahead with the work as soon as I
return, perhaps a year from now.
July 30, 1910 Cummings learned from John Wetherill that a conspiracy was
brewing to remove them from their excavations at Betatakin.
Your letters have been received and the first one enjoyed very much by
us all. The contents of the last note naturally made me a little warm under
the collar, so of course could not arouse memories that were only pleasant.
I wrote immediately to Hewett at Santa Fe, to Frank Pierce, to Senator
Smoot, and to Miss Fletcher at Washington. I did not mention the source of
my information, merely stating that word had come to me from Utah that
Indians reported that Mr. Fewkes was in the country to clean out and restore
those large cave ruins that we found. Perhaps Mr. Fewkes even how has become
more sensible and called upon the Director of the Navajo National
Monument[referring to John Wetherill] and I dont want anything to come up
in the future from anyone that might possibly embarrass the said Director or
cause him any annoyance. I appreciate the spirit in which the information
was given and thank you first.
Hewett has written a note saying that the promise was made that nothing but
a little further exploration would be done in that region and he cannot
believe that Fewkes is in their to excavate and restore those ruins, but
that he has taken the matter up with the Bureau at Washington and will know
very soon whether they propose to recognize our sites or not.
Frank Pierce had this matter looked up and sent the memorandum, a copy of
which I enclose, which is supposed to set forth the present-status of
affairs. Miss Fletcher was about to leave for England, but did all she could
to have Fewkes operations curtailed. Senator Smoot I have not yet heard
from.
This memorandum as you see, seems to suggest that these particular ruins are
to be held for examination by Smithsonian, although your note that the Secy
of the Interior may grant a permit to excavate the National Monuments and we
may be able to secure it. But that is the scheme Dr. Fewkes, aided by
Douglass, has been trying to work all along, to shut us out of that country
and it remains to be seen whether they will carry out the plan or not. I
have underlined a part of the statement that I want to call your particular
attention to is it not a plan to someday come forward and claim by the
records they antedate our visits to these monuments according to this the
proclamation setting aside these spots was issued March 20th 1909, although
the Department at Washington knew nothing of them at that time except
through the information Mr. Douglass may have secured from John Wetherill,
and not even the said John Wetherill knew anything about "Betatakin" or
Inscription House or anything definite about the "[Barohoini?] Natural
Bridge-all that time. It is to small and contemptible a scheme to ascribe to
any means in public service especially and I am ashamed to consider it, but
in the matter of the White Canyon bridges, Douglass took advantage of the
fact that Hewett had not left our maps [or] records and, although he knew we
had made the survey and that there had been a presidential proclamation
creating the bridges into a national monument based upon the information we
had given. Yet he has tried to cut us out of any credit then for and has
tried to belittle the work of Utah in the field, so now I can but see
another attempt in the same direction. I was told in Washington that even
Dr. Fewkes after his return from his visit to Arizona last fall in a public
lecture showed some of my inferior pictures of those ruins and present
himself as the discoverer of them, a man who "Hewett like," had faced untold
hardships and dangers to penetrate to the wild and wolly fastnesses of the
vast desert stretches lying about Oljato. How terrible it must be for the
citizens of that Burg to endure such barbaric conditions continuously! My
heart bleeds for them and how I wish I could drop in and shave their mysery!
I shall write Mr. Pierce again and call his attention to this statement and
date, and suggest that there are methods in the land board that still need
reformation. I shall also send a copy of this memorandum to Hewett; and Ill
keep you posted on the developments. Any further information as to what
Hewett [crossed out} Fewkes and Hewett also are doing the field or elsewhere
will be appreciated
Byron Cumming wrote John a cautionary note On August 5, 1910. Cummings
was in Germany having stopped in Washington D.C. along the way to check on
suspected wrong doing by W.B. Douglas and Jesse Fewkes.
Since writing you I notice there is a mistake made in a date in the copy
of that memorandum I sent you.
"The ruins mentioned are indicated in red on a diagram attached to the
Presidents proclamation of March 20th, 1909 and not 1910 as stated I fear in
your copy. You see why I call your attention to it this section more
particularly now. I have things stirred up a little in Washington I trust.
Someone has been grossly misrepresenting us. I do not know what the outcome
may be, but we propose to fight for our rights.
Fewkes eventually won his bid to excavate in Betatakin despite protests
entered on record by Byron Cummings. Cummings wished to continue excavation
in Betatakin as well as in Keet Seel. A letter to John Wetherill on January
20, 1911 reflected his continuing interest in further excavation. Cummings
also requested a map from John drawn by their party during the excavation of
Betatakin. Cummings also asked John to retrieve the flute found in their
excavations.
Unless something comes up to disarrange my plans I want to first visit
those caves near [nonangoshie??] again and then finish up Betatakin and
probably work in Kitsil; but will write you more fully later after I hear
from Dr. [Kingsbily?].
The Wetherill family was no stranger to defamation in their roles of
archaeological investigation and discovery. John continued to support a
national park for the entire region approaching Teddy Roosevelt on his visit
in 1911 he asked if Roosevelt was interested in viewing the dwellings.
Roosevelts response stated that he was more interested in the future than
the past and rode on to Rainbow Bridge.
INSCRIPTION HOUSE
John Wetherill recognized that many individuals visited and possibly
excavated artifacts within Inscription House long before his first visit.
John described the unique construction known now as turtle-backing and went
on to describe their route;
Inscription House is named from an old Spanish inscription low down on the
wall of a kiva.
This form of building is unknown anywhere else in this section of the
country except a few ruins near this site. The first view of the Nits sini
anon from the head of the trail leading into the Canon gives one a wonderful
view. Canyons and Cliffs. It overlooks Navaho Canon, Nitsini Canon is a
shorter branch of the Navaho. The trail leading tho [sic.] Nit sini is
direct from the Crosing [sic.] of the Fathers on the Colorado river to the
Hopi-villages. On the walls of the ruins are the names of quite a few of the
first white people to visit it. They date back to 1883. Visitors reach the
ruin on horseback from Inscription House Store located about three miles
from the ruin. Horses and accommodations are furnished by S.J. Richardson
the owner of the store.
Al Ward and several others have attempted to decipher the supposed "Spanish
Inscription" in Inscription House. The interpretation of the date originally
was 1661 but the accepted version at this point is 1861.
Who first discovered and excavated Inscription House requires much more
investigation and research based upon a thorough inscription inventory of
the site.
TACHINI POINT
Although not in the jurisdiction of Navajo National Monument Tachini Point
excavated by Cummings in 1923 is important in the understanding of discovery
of the post-basketmaker people. John Wetherill began his interest in this
group while excavating with Gustaf Nordenskiold in Step House of Mesa Verde
National Park. They found remnants of now defined pithouses and what John
referred to as "Mica Pottery". Al and John went to Grand Gulch with Charles
Mcloyd in 1892 where John recognized a difference in deformation of the
skulls. That same year John excavated once again in Step House finding
further evidence of the post-Basketmaker people. A year later in Cottonwood
Canyon and Grand Gulch they identified and named the Basketmaker People.
Tachini Point further spiked Johns interest in the Basketmaker. 1923 was a
banner year for John aiding his understanding of Basketmaker and Post-Basketmaker
groups. Johns interest in Basketmaker was shared with archaeologist Earl
Morris. Their trip with Charles Bernheimer in 1921 to the west side of
Navajo Mountain resulted in Morriss viewing of their existence in Charcoal
Cave. With Bernheimer again in 1923 John Wetherill helped Morris identify
Basketmaker burials at Mummy Cave in Canyon Del Muerto. Tachina Point
brought further evidence of the post-maker prior to Morriss classic
excavations in Prayer Rock District Arizona and Talus Village in the Animas
Valley near Durango.
Not to be outdone by an amateur from back east [possibly referring to
Kidder and Guernseys earlier work in Marsh Pass], Cummings planned a major
expedition for the summer of 1923. From June to September, Cummings, his
wife, friends, and students explored the area southwest of Navajo Mountain
and excavated two sites near Marsh Pass. The 1923 expedition started out
with 17 people, with one person leaving early. One of the students was
Winslow Walker, who began his archaeological career that year. The son of
archaeologist Edwin F. Walker of the Southwest Museum in Los Angeles.
On the last day of August, Cummings and his crew began digging at
another site near Kayenta called Tachini Point and characterized as a
pithouse pueblo. Although they did not find any burials after a week of
excavations, they did find a square shaped room made of slabs that Cummings
believed represented a transition from round to square pithouses. They also
found pottery that he thought was a transitional type between earlier
ceramics and later pueblo pottery
Louise Swinnerton, wife of Jimmy Swinnerton illustrator cartoonist of Canyon
Country Kiddies and friend of John and Louisa Wetherill went to Tachini
Point while under excavation. She was escorted through the site by both
Cummings and Wetherill. Her observations were published in the Los Angeles
Examiner sometime during 1923.
The site under which the village rests covers extensive proportions in
the most romantic portion of the Southwestthe Saga country. Excavations
show that at this point lived the first pottery makers of Americathe first
in the world. Specimens indicate these early prehistoric Americans were the
very first people to make and form pottery. Nothing so crude has ever been
discovered before in the art of moulding and modeling clay.
Link Long Sought
These people are the link for which scientists have hunted the world
over. They are the definite connection between the Basket people, who were
the first inhabitants of America, a cist-dwelling people, and the Slab-house
people, or cliff dwellers.
Both classes of these people were unearthed by John and Clayton Weatherill
[sic.] in 1909. They were also found by Dr. Cummings in the same year in the
Segi Ot Sosi canyon and its branches, and also in the famous Monument
Valley.
John Wetherill, when interviewed at his home in Kayenta, Ariz., which is at
a point farther removed from civilization than any other of its kind in
America, said that these new ruins which Doctor Cummings is calling the
"Round House People were " discovered in the usual Wetherill fashionhunting
for cattle or criminals."
"I was riding cross-country in pursuit of a renegade Navajo," he explained"
The fellow had attempted to kill his wife. The day was very hot and the
chase long. The Indian climbed a rocky ridge and was somewhere on top.
Knowing that he could not escape down the other side, I paused to take a
rest and feed my eyes on the lengthening cloud shadows across Black Mesa. I
chanced to let my eye roam here and there saw protruding nearby a peculiar
arrangement of jutting slab rocks arranged in circles. I made a mental note
of the situation and continued after my Navajo.
Dr. Cummings said: "People are usually trying to conjure some mysterious
reason for the disappearances of these first people, but everything points
to the fact that abandonment of village sites was rather normal, and caused
usually by natureflood, fire and pestilence."
On the other hand John Wetherill does not agree with Dr. Cummings concerning
all these points. Wetherill has the advantage of his friends in this way.
Through near close association with Indians; their folklore and traditions
to him is an open book. He believes somewhat in the reasons they set forth
themselves as to causes for different disappearancesMrs. Wetherill say that
[Ancient?] legends the Indians tell that they were depleted in number on
many occasions, and made to abandon their homes because or race suicide,
intermarriage and war.
A remarkable thing that Dr. Cummings and Wetherill agree upon, however, is
that they are both certain from their scientific researches that it is
definitely show though excavations, that these people are direct ancestors
of present living clans of Hopis and other pueblos.
INDEX TO ORIGINAL COPIES
FROM
WETHERILL FAMILY ARCHIVES
ANASAZI HERITAGE CENTER
Submitted to Navajo National Monument
In the order as submitted
Accession # Description Number of Pages
2001.18.D.842.C Donald Beauregard article Deseret News 2
2001.18.D. John Wetherill notes Betatakin/Inscription
House 3
2001.18.D. Louise Swinnerton article Tachina Point 2
2001.18.D. Byron Cummings Letter June 29, 1913 1
2001.18.D.93.C John Wetherill to Pinkley June 30, 1932 2
2001.18.D.99.C John Wetherill to Warner 1
2001.18.D.591.C John Wetherill archaeological notes 12
2001.18.D.488.C February 25 T. Mitchell Prudden letter 3
2001.18.D. January 20, 1911 Cummings letter 2
2001.18.D.311.C August 5, 1910 Cummings letter 3
2001.18.D.509.C July 30, 1910 Cummings letter 9
2001.18.D.308.C April 27, 1910 Cummings letter 6
2001.18.D. J. Wetherill handwritten notes regarding
Inscription House 2
2001.18.D. Letter from William B. Douglas dated
March 22, 1909 1
